Category Archives: Uncategorized

Tuareg documentary online at Al Jazeera

First in a three-part documentary on Al Jazeera online about the Tuareg of Niger and Mali following the fall of Libya from which many of them fled.

Can’t embed – the link is here or click image below. Well worth watching.

Also, an article by the film maker here. And another by Andy Morgan about the Tuareg cause.

Part Two ‘Rebellion‘ is online now too. Part 3 ‘Exile’ is in a week.
All also on Al Jazeera TV channel I presume.

aljt1

Mauritania 2013

by Robert R

Googled into English
rrmap

Carnet ATA: Pour le Sรฉnรฉgal seulement
Visas Mauritaniens: Double entrรฉe, demandรฉs via Lyon visa service.
Visas Sรฉnรฉgalais: Multi entrรฉes, demandรฉs au consulat de Lyon.
Guides: La Mauritanie au GPS (Cyril Ribas)
Le Routard 2013 pour le Sรฉnรฉgal et la Gambie (pas trรจs fiable)
Lonely Planet pour la Guinรฉe Bissau.


rr04
Aurora fort
rr01
Plage Blanche

Le voyage
1. Ferry Sete – Tanger le 28/9/13 avec GNV.

3. 11/10: On retrouve nos amis ร  Dakhla.

4. 12/10: Frontiรจre Mauritanienne: c’est le souk cรดtรฉ Marocain car il y a pas mal de monde et l’organisation des   files d’attente laisse ร  dรฉsirer. On y passe au moins 4h! On retrouve notre guide Fadel, cotรฉ Mauritanien.
Bivouac au dรฉbut de l’ancienne piste vers le Banc d’Arguin  (Pour les points, cf. bouquin Cyril Ribas).

5.  13/10: Dรฉjeuner ร  la plage d’Arkeist, baignade et bivouac.

6.  14/10: Traversรฉe Banc d’Arguin –> Benichab. On quitte la piste de Nouamghar vers Tessot.

Croisement vers Tessot:
N 19ยฐ 28.249 O 16ยฐ 18.330 (km 0)

Points sur la (belle) piste:
N 19ยฐ 28.281 O 16ยฐ 17.244
N  19ยฐ 24.716 O 16ยฐ 04.127

On rejoint ensuite la route Nouakchott (vers le Sud, km 30)

Croisement de la piste pour Benichab (sur la gauche, juste aprรจs une station-service):
N 18ยฐ 52.840 O 16ยฐ 09.736 (km 97)

rr03
Benichab

La piste suit une direction Est Nord Est jusquโ€™ร  Benichab.

Points sur la piste:
N 18ยฐ 56.507 O 16ยฐ 05.012 (km 110)
N 19ยฐ 00.305 O 16ยฐ 01.321 (km 120)
N 19ยฐ 22.417 O 15ยฐ 34.351

Benichab: N 19ยฐ 28.130 O 15ยฐ 25.642 (km 212)

Benichab:
A Benichab, il a fallu discuter ferme pour pouvoir bivouaquer plus loin sur la piste dโ€™Akjoujt. Depuis qu’on a quittรฉ le bord de mer, il fait trรจs chaud (pointes ร  46-48ยฐC!)

7.  15/10: Akjout puis traversรฉe pour bivouaquer au pied des dunes de l’Amatlich.
Pour le parcours Akjoujt-El Abiod, on a utilisรฉ les points du guide de Cyril Ribas car Fadel ne connaissait pas.

rr04
Akjoudt

Akjoujt: N 19 44.700  O 14 23.040

Croisement (sur la route dโ€™Atar): N 19 54.897 O 14 05.388
Puit Tabrenkount:      N 19 48.686  O 14 02.149
Entree Amatlich:         N 19 42.926  O 13 42.535

8.  16/10: Traversรฉe de l’erg le matin : C’est vrai que l’Amatlich c’est pas trop facile! Mais il y avait une bonne trace et le collรจgue qui รฉtait devant moi est un super pilote, donc derriรจre on voit bien les difficultรฉs et plus facile ร  nรฉgocier: aucun plantage pour les 3 voitures mais il a fallu forcer sur le champignon!

Sortie Amatlich:   N 19 45 445  O 13 46.241
Puits d’Amazmaz: N 19 41.241  O 13 25.965

rr05

rr06
rr07

rr09
Amazmaz guelta

Puis dรฉtour vers la guelta

d’Amazmaz: pas facile ร  trouver la piste pour y aller et en plus elle est pleine de caillasses mais une fois arrivรฉe ร  la guelta c’est le pied: baignade et bivouac.

9.    17/10:  En route vers la passe de Tifoujar, on traverse de jolis villages.

rr10

Hassi el Tisram     N 19 47.243  O 13 25.248
El Meddah               N 19 54.930 O 13 19.607
El Gleitat                 N 19 58.306 O 13 17.624
Passe de Tifoujar   N 20 05.537 O 13 11.882

rr11

 (La passe de Tifoujar, je ne connaissais pas, c’est splendide!), grande et belle descente vers l’oued El Abiod (toujours aussi beau malgrรฉ le temps gris et toujours aussi chaud), Oujeft et bivouac sur la  piste de Terjit (avec, en plus de la chaleur, un sale vent).

Toungad: N 20 03.193 O 13 07.208
Oujeft: N 20 01.609 O 13 02.940

10.  18/10: Terjit, courses ร  Atar et bivouac prรจs de la piste d’Ouadane.

rr12

11.   19/10: Ouadane, Dรฉjeuner ร  l’auberge de Zeida (left): elle est trรจs sympa et elle nous a cuisinรฉ un super plat.

Dรฉpart par le dรฉsert pour Chinguetti et super bivouac en route aprรจs un trรจs joli village.

rr14

rr15

rrching

12. 20/10: Chinguetti (left), visite et dรฉjeuner sous 1 bosquet dans l’oued et dรฉpart pour 1 visite ร  la passe d’Amodjar (que l’un   des รฉquipages ne connaissait pas). Puis direction le mont Zarga pour rรฉcupรฉrer la piste de Tidjika. Bivouac juste avant Zargas.

rr16

13. 21/10: Piste vers Tidjika (right), en suivant les points du bouquin de Cyril Ribas sauf quand la construction de la nouvelle route Atar-Tidjika nous a obligรฉ ร  dรฉvier (assez loin, d’ailleurs).

Joli bivouac ร  l’รฉcart: Il faut noter que pour tous les bivouacs, Fadel nous a demandรฉ de choisir un coin un peu รฉloignรฉ de la piste ou de la trace principale pour des raisons de sรฉcuritรฉ.

Pour tous les points de la piste Chinguetti-Tidjika, voir le bouquin de Ribas.

rr17

14.     22/10: Puis on a rejoint le magnifique Oued Rachid (right) pour le remonter.

Super bivouac non loin de l’oued.

15.     23/10: On continue ร  remonter l’oued, passage pas facile ร  trouver vers la fin car les pluies ont fait des dรฉgรขts.
Et on dรฉcouvre une guelta: avec une magnifique sรฉance de troupeaux ร  l’abreuvoir.

rr19

rr20

Arrivรฉe ร  Rachid (left), quelques courses pour un super picnic ร  l’ombre (il fait toujours aussi chaud!) au bord de  l’oued. 

Puis Tidjika pour refaire les pleins et on rรฉcupรจre la piste vers Boumdeit.

16.     24/10: Passe de Nรฉga (on toujours pas vu les singes!), Boumdeit et bivouac prรจs de la piste vers Kiffa (le cram-cram commence ร  devenir envahissant et il fait toujours aussi chaud!).

rr21

17.     25/10 : Kiffa, puis route vers Aleg. Arret devant la stele ร  la mรฉmoire des  4 Franรงais et leur guide assassinรฉs en Dรฉcembre 2007 (right).

Beaucoup de contrรดles sur la oute ร  partir de Kiffa. Bivouac ร  l’รฉcart de la route aprรจs Sangafara. Nous quittons notre guide Fadel  ร  Aleg, cela a รฉtรฉ un trรจs bon compagnon de route et un bon guide. Fadel Habib: 00222 22 44 38 04.

rr22

18.     26/10: Route (c’est goudronnรฉ maintenant) vers Boghรฉ, Rosso; bivouac avant Rosso.

19.     27/10: Piste vers Diama et passage de la frontiรจre Senegalese sans problรจme. Nuit ร  Saint Louis.

rr23

Ten Days in Morocco ~ Husky โ€ข Sertao โ€ข XR ~ Final part

mk3-01

Parts One and Two here.
As two of the group are actors and Americans, from Tazenacht we take an excursion north to Gas Haven, a surviving film set from a 2006 remake of Wes Craven’s 1970s mutant hillbilly slasher The Hills Have Eyes. If nothing else it’s a great ride north through the Tizi n Bachkoum pass, chasing Andy on the Sertao.

mk3-02

Southwest American roadhouse an hour out of Ouarzazate. Even that boulder by the sign is fibreglass and wire.

mk3-03

Being an actor, Patrick knows a lot about about working behind bars.

mk3-04

Outside, desiccated, severed limbs swing in the desert sun.

mk3-05

There’s even a Wall of Death, but not the fairground one where a bloke rides round and round until he gets dizzy.

mk3-06

Chubby-cheeked babies charred by a nuclear experiment that went tragically wrong. Or something like that.

mk3-07

Lunch in Agdz – pronounced like ‘Agadez’ in Niger.

mk3-08

Rob takes a swing on the Husky.

mk3-09

Mustapha leads us to a viewpoint over Agdz palmerie with the Draa river in there somewhere. We’re riding up that hill tomorrow.

mk3-10

We arrive at the lovely Ksar Jenna on Nekob westside. We’re spending two nights here.

mk3-11

Night falls over Nekob.

mk3-12

Inside, following another fine feast, the Kindles glow.

mk3-13

Next day Rob, Andy and I take a ride up MH14 ‘Sarhro West’ which I tried last year on the BMW 650 twin.

mk3-14

Patrick is doing his own thing today on the Sertao and Andy snatched his XR250 before I could.

mk3-16

We stop for a tea and snack at the last dwelling up the valley. Hassan sits with young Ahmed in his woolly hoodie.

mk3-17

At the summit junction, KM46, I invoke the droite d’accompagnateur and depose Andy from the XR250.

mk3-35Undaunted, Andy hurtles off into the afternoon sun on the TR650, following an untried Olaf track which descends to the N9/N12 near the Draa river.

mk3-18

Once it drops off the plateau this piste proves to be as spectacular and exposed as I imagined. Morocco at its best.

mk3-20

mk3-21

Back on the N12 road a short distance out of Nekob, another palm-ringed kasbah shimmers in the crepuscular glow.

mk3-22

And another lavish breakfast at Ksar Jenna.

mk3-23

Today we’re moving on, off up the well-known 112-km piste over Jebel Sarhro to Tinerhir; MH4.

mk3-24

Just a week on a dirt bike and Patrick already has his arse-end aflame.

mk3-25

A rare shot of me on a motorcycle. I’m trying out the Sertao, but on the piste its characteristics are distinctly canine compared to the Terra. Nice engine but feels 20kg heavier.

mk3-26

This was all the ‘camping’ we could manage.

mk3-27

A coke stop near the pass.

mk3-28

Up past Iknioun the track becomes a wide and fast motorway and I blast along on the Husky in top gear for a while. But the classic piste (MH4) is now in the shadow of the amazing Sarhro West piste we did yesterday.

mk3-29

We haul 100km over to Chez Moha at Ait Youb hamlet in the High Atlas. A lovely spot all made of mayd and straw, but a bit chilly compared to what we’re used to.

mk3-30

Maybe better in the spring when I was here last time. Even then, we enjoy a fabulous cous-cous feast huddled by an electric heater.

mk3-31

Next day a cool morning but I enjoy a fantastic burn up down the Todra Gorge on the Husky, fix a quick nail puncture then we have a lavish grill in Tinerhir. A hundred miles down the road we check into the Vallee hotel in Ouarzazate southside. A little past it prime, but they have wifi and heating and beer and yet more great food.

mk3-32

Our room boasts some rather creepy psycho-erotic art. The longer you look at it, the more disturbing it gets. Or perhaps it’s just depicting the desecration of our Mother Earth. Either way, I do believe ‘Salah 07’ might be in dire need of some female company.

Next day, yet more brake warming, bend swinging action over the Tizi n Tichka pass back to Marrakech and a plane home.

mk3-34

So there we have it. A great group and a fab time buzzing around Morocco over 10 days enjoying a little bit of everything: cosy lodgings, amazing views, delicious fresh food, all linked by great blacktop and piste. I’ll offer something similar as a tour next November 2014 when the weather seems just right. Have a look at the Tours page around mid-December.

Ten Days in Morocco ~ Husky โ€ข Sertao โ€ข XR ~ 2/3

Continuing our short ride through southern Morocco. Part 1 was here. Part 3 right here.


Sunrise at the oasis.


I go for a walk, passing unusual dwellings designed to slide downhill in the event of an earthquake.


Not a place to stagger back to late one night, fumbling for your keys.


We go for a ride back up the cliff

.


Rob tries out his new Touratech Arai-iPhone adapter mount, called a Digital Utility Camera Transom. You’d think they could come up with a snappier name.


Down below, a carefully tended mosaic of gardens lap up the autumn sun.


We take a walk over to the kasbah (fortified dwelling) at Assaragh


Then ride back down…


โ€ฆ to the auberge for lunch. It was built by a local who did well abroad, and chose to return something to his community. A common practise in Morocco.


After a siesta we head out to a curious ruined tsar (similar to a kasbah but more castle-like) which I passed last year.


We wind out way up into a maze of crumbling walls and collapsed palm-trunk beams.


But at the doorway it looks a bit dodgy to go further without a hardhat and full body armour.


Next day weโ€™re back on the piste.


Heading up over Jebel Timouka, Route MA6 in my book.


Into the ranges.


Some oueds (creeks) are hard work on the heavy 650s. So we stop to cool off and let Elisa and Mustapha catch up.


The climb begins.

Deeper

Steeper

Higher

I donโ€™t know about the others, but the occasional landslide repairs with football-sized rocks are barely rideable on the Terra. The suspension shoves the weight back at you in all directions nd you can tell that point is coming where itโ€™s easier to fall than fight it. When I came this way in 2008 I broke a spring on my pickup. Iโ€™m up ahead and eventually pull over weak-kneed, strip off and empty my 3-pint bottle. The others catch up and Elisa hands out power bars. Andyโ€™s Sertao is even more of a dog than the Husky and Patrick got pinned negotiating a gnarly hairpin, but is nevertheless amazed at the beating the XR can take. Rob finds his XR a breeze up here.


We carry on to an amazing view back south towards Jebel Bani, now only 80 miles away


Thankfully the track eases up and we reach the equally amazing Timouka Pass overlooking the Issil plain.
In the many tiny Berber villages below (the green clumps) women dye wool and work ancient looms to
produce the fine carpets you’ll find in the souks of Marrakech and Tangier


We drop off the pass, race across the plain to the highway and ride into Tazenacht for a late lunch, babbling about our awesome morningโ€™s ride. Freshly-chopped Moroccan salad (a bit like Mexican salsa), omelette, chips and bread + tea. That’ll be $3 Down the road, plenty of room at the Hotel Sahara.


Night falls over Tazenacht.


While inside the infidels, some in fancy dress, gathered for the feast and then retire to their chilly suites.

Final part right here

Ten Days in Morocco ~ Husky โ€ข Sertao โ€ข XR ~ 1/3

mk13101

Husky TR650 review here
Next fly-in tour here
2upmk

This is us: Rob UK, Patrick NYC, Andy (ex Desert Rider), Elisa NYC and me, having some sort of ministroke.
Rob and Patrick were part of a group that trekked with me in Algeria last year. With another planned moto tour having fallen through, off-road newb Patrick asked me to put together a run through Morocco. OK I said if you can find some people to cover my costs.
This he did and here we were.

mk13102

We rent bikes from Loc2Roues Marrakech (more details here).

mk13103

Andy gets a well-used Sertao with about 45,000km.

tr

I pick a sexy Terra. My review here.

mk13105

I strap a satnav over the dash, a water bottle holder to the crash bar and tuck my book under the tanknet.

mk13106

Other than Andy, I wasnโ€™t sure of the othersโ€™ ability so recommend XR250 Tornados.

mk13107

This is a great little machine: an air-cooled, four-valve, big oil cooler, 5 speed, electric start, carb-fed, drum rear dirt bike. It stacks up very well alongside the CRF250L I ran around the Southwest USA earlier this year; as economical, as good suspension, as pokey and it felt lighter, though there’s only some 6kg in it according to online stats.

mk13108

Trouble is, itโ€™s made in Brazil (and sold in Argentina) and AFAIK is only available in countries with I presume have slack emissions regs.
None have ridden off road but Rob once ran a 996 so heโ€™ll catch up and Patrick learned fast. Only Elisa found the learning curve of Morocco + piste a bit steep so switched to a jeep which actually served us all well as a baggage carrier.

mk13109

Before we even leave the agency, Mustapha the driver dashes off with Elisa. His silver SUV soon disappears in a sea of silver SUVs. Rob gets the guy at the servo to bring him back.

mk13110

The first day was scheduled as easy as we expected faffing around at the rental place. Just 100 clicks down the road to a lodge up in the High Atlas.

mk13111

Notice the sagging front tyre on the Husky; a slow puncture which led to overheating and a faster puncture on the rough road into the Atlas. Next morning it’s flat as, and no tools under the seat. The Sertao’s wheel wrench fits but one Torx fitting is mashed and none of mine fit.

mk13112

I nip down the road to chisel it off while the village vulcaniser irons on bits of rubber with blue goo, literally with an old electric clothes iron and a screw press. It looked impressive but also kind of crap. May work OK on a local moped but on the 650 the repair lasted 20 mins on the first piste a couple of days later.

mk13113

Anyway, on the crest of the High Atlas at Tizi n Test pass (6860โ€™) we stop for lunch then enjoy a great ride down into the sunny southlands. Notice the ridge on the far horizon: thatโ€™s Jebel Bani about 130 miles away; the last of the Atlas mountain ranges. Beyond that, unbroken Sahara for a 1000 miles all the way to Timbuktu.

mk13114

With half a day lost chiselling nuts and ironing rubber, we make an unplanned stop over in Taliouine, famous for its saffron which weโ€™re assured is the best in the world and cures all maladies. I sprinkle some on my front tyre, also my front brake and efi which are playing up.

mk13115

As expected, the Husky is the thirstiest bike by 20%, but also the most powerful and with the best soundtrack which = a whole lot of fun in the twisty blacktop canyons of the Anti Atlas. Let me tell you, all this โ€˜ad-venture motorcyclingโ€™ is a lost cause, carting your junk around like a mule and camping out bush like some vagrant. Hire a jeep, check into roadside lodges at half board and enjoy Bourgeois Motorcycling!

mk13116

Patrick tries the Sertao and declares itโ€™s the best motorcycle ever made. Itโ€™s certainly more comfy than the others, has a mellower engine than the TR and some days even used less fuel than the XRs. But when the dirt gets gnarly it’s a dog.

mk13117

Thatโ€™s several thousand dirhams worth of saffron right there.

mk13118

Carefully picked from these crocuses, or is it crocii?

mk13119

Patrick and Elisa pose with some $10 jars.

mk13120

Two hundred clicks out of Marrakech we take to the piste into the Anti Atlas, the arid range south of the High Atlas which for me adds up to the best riding in Morocco. Soon the Husky front tube pops its corks so I slot our only new 21โ€ in and hope for the best.

mk13121

Dirtnewb Patrick is getting into the swing but next time I’m going to levy a surcharge for all black outfits.

mk13122

Desert Rider Andy runs an 1190 + his old trans-Africa 640 back home so for him itโ€™s all in a dayโ€™s work. Thatโ€™s his 11-year old Darien Light that Aero made for us, still as good as new.

mk13123

Into the valley.

mk13125

Past hilltop Berber villages.

mk13126

Up ahead a dramatic descent down a tufa waterfall. Andy sets off on the Husky and we follow.

mk13127
mk13131
mk13133
mk13132

mk13136

We ride through the palmerie and arrive at our lodge where we’ll spend two nights.

mk13137Night falls across the tranquil oasis. ‘Allaaaaahu Ak-bar’ rings from the minarets.

mk13138

While inside the three infidels sit transfixed as the guy pours a shot of whisky.

mk1ruta Our route so far.

Part Two of Three

Desert Driving – Vehicle Set Up

dd2-front-med

Just uploaded the 20-minute section from Desert Driving II dvd in which Toby Savage and I describe how we set up our vehicles for long-range desert travel.

last-sightings

This was shot in 2002;  no doubt gadgets have moved on since then but the principles remain the same.

dr-fling

Before we met up to make the film I was travelling in the deep south of Algeria, burying fuel and food caches for Desert Riders which we did in early 2003.

With that done, we filmed the whole thing from Illizi to HbG in about 3 days along the so-called ‘Graveyard Piste’ (A2 in the book). It runs some 470-km between Illizi and Hassi bel Guebbour and adds up to the perfect Saharan piste: pre-historic graves, dunes, gazelles, plateaux, old French fort, a couple of wells as well as nomad camps – Sahara in a nut shell.

Just as we were coming back from D Riders, it was along this popular piste a few months later that 32 tourists on motos and 4x4s (some of whom we’d met in Tam) were kidnapped, kicking off the current situation in the Sahara. The scourge continues (two more kidnapped today in Mali) and it left a lot of desert-ready fourbies all dressed up and nowhere to go.

DVDs

Now, like most people, I shoot straight to youtube or vimeo (here’s aย Sahara filmย from 2011), but back in the 00ies I produced a couple of dvds in the Sahara.

DR dvd FR 2016
ngchan

Desert Riders was the story behind our ambitious expedition across Algeria to the Lost Tree in the northern Tenere of Niger riding Honda XR650Ls. A shortened version was featured on National Geographic Channel You can watch the full film on youtube for free.

DD2-front-med

My other film was Desert Driving – an instructional ‘how-to’ dvd shotย with Toby Savageย and Richard Gurr in southeastern Algeria featuring my HJ61 Toyota and Toby’s Land Rover Carawagon.
Desert Driving 2 (right) features additional material shot in the Tassili Hoggar, Egypt’s Gilf Kebir and Great Sand Sea.

DD2back

The film covers the various means of vehicle preparation, the best maps and using GPS, dune driving, recovery by winch, air bag, high lift as well as various types of sand ladders. Toby and I actually tried all the stuff they tell you about in the books and magazines to see what works and what doesn’t. A preview below.

Format: PAL โ€ข Duration: 134 mins โ€ข ยฃ14.99 Want a copy post free? Email me

Mercedes Saloons across Chad

gerb
gerb

Gerbert van der Aa is a Dutch journalist specialising in the Sahara and author of In Search of the Tuareg. Photographer Sven Torfinn accompanied him on this trip through Tunisia, Libya and Chad.

See also this.

chadw

 In February 1999 I visited Libya and Chad, travelling with a friend in two Mercedes 190 town cars. Everyone told us we’d never made it to Chad with this type of car but I’ve done this sort of thing before and knew the limits of 2WDs. In Libya we tried to drive to Lake Gabron in the Ubari erg (Route L3), but couldn’t reach it. The first day one of the cars flew too high when my friend gave it a bit too much power to get up the dune. Luckily only the radiator and the fan were crushed. The next day we tried again, but got stuck almost every kilometre, even with tyre pressures at 0.6 bar (8 psi). We were digging our cars out of the sand all day and in the end decided to turn back.

So we didn’t have much hope that we’d reach Ndjamena. Many Libyans said the tracks to Chad were even worse than the tracks to Gabron, but we decided to continue anyway. On February 22 we arrived in El Gatrun, the last Libyan town before the border with Chad. People there told us there’d been no Libyan vehicles going south for four months because the Chadians closed the border. The reason, nobody seemed to know. A guide was very expensive (1000 US!), so we decided to drive without one and use our GPS with the coordinates I got from Klaus Daerr’s website. We drove with an Italian Land Rover.

Everything went wonderfully well. After three days we arrived in Wour without hitting mines. Only the last ten kilometres were difficult for our cars due to the many rocks in the soft sand. We cracked the sump of one of the cars but repaired it with glue – I was surprised it worked and I was ready to leave the car in the desert. In Wour we had three punctures at the same time and so the Italians, who were in a hurry, carried on. In Wour everyone was very surprised to see two normal Mercedes coming from Libya. It had never happened before, they told us. But they assured us that driving from Wour to Ndjamena would really be impossible with these cars.

There were a lot of soldiers in Wour where we found out there is quite a heavy war going on in Tibesti. Aouzou was occupied and Bardai surrounded by rebels led by former defence minister Togoimi, a Tubu himself. We drove on to Zouar with a compulsory guide. He was about 17 years old but didn’t speak Arabic or French, only Tuburi. We paid him the fixed rate of 350FF. There were endless sandy wadis and we were digging out constantly but each time our guide just said travail (‘work’) – about the only French word he seemed to know – and then sat under a tree until we’d dug out the cars. When we asked him to help us, he did not react.

We entered Zouar from the south with a military escort. Entering from the west through the Zouarkรˆ Valley seems impossible with normal cars. In Zouar we saw even more soldiers than in Wour. We stayed two days and had to camp with the soldiers. Because of the fighting, the situation was quite tense. Although the local commander said there were no problems, one of the soldiers said his convoy had been ambushed near Zouar a week earlier and a couple of soldiers had been killed. But we had to go on.

Zouar to Ndjamena
We drove in three days to Faya. The road was not that difficult although we broke and repaired the sump of the other car and luckily met no rebels. We saw lots of unexploded ammunition and old tanks left behind by Libyans during their retreat from Chad. If more tourists visit the area, accidents will surely happen because sometimes you don’t see the shells in the sand until you drive over them.

Faya is a lovely oasis. From here we took a guide, Haliki Kodimi, 60 years old and a very lovely man to help us through the big dunes of the Erg Djourab. We had plenty of digging to do but three days later arrived without problems at Kouba Oulanga, halfway to Ndjamena. From there the piste to the capital was quite easy but dusty. All around people were very surprised to see two Mercedes coupes coming out of the desert. In Ndjamena nobody asked us for a carnet or insurance. We sold the cars in Ndjamena and flew back home.

It was a wonderful trip. Libya was especially nice with very kind people. Chad is a bit more ‘cadeau-country’, but very beautiful. I don’t think I would try the same route with a normal car again. It’s much more difficult than Algeria-Niger or Morocco-Mauritania. But if anyone wants to try it: we have proved you don’t need a four-wheel drive. Because we sold our cars for quite a good price (25,000FF each), the trip only cost us 4500FF a person. Both the Italians and another Swiss couple we met in Libya arrived in Ndjamena OK.

Gerbert van der Aa

Desert Dealers ~ Mauritania 1997

merc1Ever thought of buying an old Merc, driving it 2000 miles across the Sahara and selling it easily for a 400% profit? Chris Scott went along for the ride.

The phone rang. ‘Chris, it’s Andy. Wanna lift to Mauritania?’
‘When you going?’ I asked.
‘Now. I’m in Lyon.’
‘Er, how about I meet you in Malaga.’
‘OK.’

merc2

Andy was a 23-year-old engineering graduate trying to put off a career in designing aerodynamic egg cartons. Having fallen in with some wheeler-dealing grape pickers in France, he’d joined a bunch of them driving old heaps down to Mauritania to sell. With the right car; ideally a German-registered diesel Mercedes roadworthy test failure, one could pay for the trip and come out with a few hundred quid. On that trip Andy had indeed tripled his money but had got set-up by the buyer and summarily stiffed by the Mauritanian customs, handing over half the grand he’d made.

This time with some lucrative contraband, forged documents and three passengers along for the ride – myself and retired grapeurs Sandrine and Pascaline – he was ready to stiff back at the wily traders and corrupt Mauritanian officials with a vengeance. The plan was the same: drive ยฃ300-worth of ’82 Mercedes  to Mauritania, flog it on the side and fly back for another.

mercbalisesav

Flogging bangers in car-starved West Africa is nothing new. In the 1980s, ratty 504s and the like dragged themselves across Algeria to Niger and Togo. A good sale paid for a beach break and a flight home with a suntan. Trouble was, making a quick African buck still involved crossing 2000 miles of Sahara desert – no easy feat for a knackered and overloaded Morris Marina. Summer saw most disasters – foolhardy young European thinking they were in for a big adventure. Some got lost and disoriented in sandstorms or open desert and weren’t found for years.

These days civil unrest makes Algeria about as desirable as Iraq and so the irrepressible river of trade has found a new course – down through the Western Sahara to Mauritania and Senegal, what I later dubbed the Atlantic Route. Distances are long but the tarmac’s good, the fuel’s cheap and the Moroccans are cool. All you have to do is get in and out of Mauritania without getting busted for smuggling, blown up by mines or ripped off – a ‘Winter Sun Special’ with attitude. Anyone can do it, but before you start tearing through Exchange & Mart remember it’s the combination of sub-roadworthy cars from Germany added to the blind-eyed desirability for Stuttgart’s three-pronged star that gets the biggest profits. 

ON THE PULL
I met up with Andy at Malaga airport, mumbled greetings to Sandrine and Pascaline and had a quick appraisal of the car which on the surface looked a snip at ยฃ300; strict roadworthy tests prematurely age cars in Germany. Catching an Algeciras ferry in the nick of time we cruised through the Moroccan frontier controls despite a stash of duty-free whisky, car radios and mobile phones, plus a home-made Green Card. With a tank full of duty free fuel too, we headed into the Rif mountains, where roadside kids offered lumps of hash the size of cricket balls. Dazed by one of Pascaline’s baguette-sized rolls-ups, we drove through the hills into the night, finally lurching into the pound-a-night Hotel Marrakesh in Rabat.

merc11

Officially the land border with Morocco and Mauritania is closed so in Rabat I had to pull a little scam of my own. I bought a flight to Mauritania, used the ticket to apply for the ‘entry by air only’ and then cancelled the ticket. It’s something they don’t tell you about in the guide books, but the practise is widely accepted. The French girls didn’t need visas and Andy was borrowing a French mate’s passport to save money. With a few days growth and some cucumber in his cheeks the likeness was pretty good, and anyway these Europeans all look the same.

That done, we hit the road to Essaouira where we were meeting Sandrine’s brother, Christophe. As we drove I noticed Andy was adapting quickly to Moroccan driving techniques, a combination of screeching bend-swinging, impulsive stops or U-turns and lane-clogging coasting while he peeled an orange or fiddled with the wiring. All he had to do now was take up smoking, spitting and perfect his mid-conversation ‘crotch-lift’, and they’d give him a passport there and then.

merc4

By mid-afternoon we were clinking mint teas with, Christophe, an affable guy who’d make friends with a brick before you could say ‘Come ON, willya!!’. Christophe had just sold his business for a packet but had also been dumped by his wife, so joining us to cross the Sahara and flog his seven-year-old 740 Volvo seemed like a good move. Like Andy’s Merc (before he readjusted it), the 740 had a healthy 300,000 on the dial, but looked and handled a whole lot better than the tired old Merc whose TUV failure read like a parts manual.

Morocco is not a heavy country – it’s one of the friendliest and most laid back I’ve visited – but it does have its fair share of police check points. Next day, chasing Christophe along a shoreside corniche, Andy gunned the three-litre Merc past a lorry and over a bridge at 120kph. Hitting a dip with a diff’-splitting scrape, we drove straight towards a gesticulating policeman.

chipsters

Although Andy had already joked, grovelled and argued his way out of a couple of pulls, this one looked serious. The officer had clearly modelled himself on bad-ass US movie-cops. He sauntered slowly towards the car, knowing he had us nailed, and demanded ‘Papers!’

‘Bonjour officer’ Andy launched in jovially, ‘How are you, salaam alaikum, la bas?’ (Arabic greetings).

‘Alaikum salaam’ answered the policeman slowly. ‘Do you normally drive like this in your country?’

‘Hey, it’s no problem officer, I had excellent visibility and there was plenty ofโ€ฆ’

‘Passaport!’ he cut in. Andy handed over the document.

‘Driving licence! Registration!’ Andy complied, now chewing his lip. The guy flicked through the documents with a sneer. This was not the time for the cheekiness Andy had used earlier.

‘The fine for overtaking on a bridge is 400 dirhams’. About ยฃ25.

‘FOUR HUNDRED DIRHAMS!!!’ Andy exclaimed as if it was a mid-week double rollover.

‘But Monsieur, we don’t have such money, we’ve just filled up and we’re heading for the bank in Tamri.’

‘Then you must face the tribunal in Agadir. Overtaking on a bridge is in contravention of International Law. The fine is 400 dirhams.’

Now Andy saw a chink. If this guy was quoting ‘International Laws’ then he might as well proclaim the Fifth Amendment of Alpha Centauri.

‘But monsieur, in England there are no such laws. I was trying to keep up with my friend and the bank will close soon.’ Andy pleaded.

‘Were are you going?’

‘Oh, just down to Agadir to the camping – a short holiday, it’s all we can afford.’

We stared intently out of the windows as their confrontation cooled. Body language altered, tones mellowed and after a while we were sent on our way with a reprimand.

‘Zat was a close one.’ said Sandrine.

”International Law!’. Do me a favour!’

mercar

MINEFIELDS AND NO-MAN’S-LAND
Next morning, we left the popular portion of Morocco to tackle the drab desert coast of the Western Sahara where plains of rubble and low escarpments drop into the Atlantic’s pounding surf. This is disputed territory between Saharawi nomads – united under the Polisario Front – and the expansionist Moroccan government greedy for the region’s minerals. An ageing British FCO’s travel warning put Western Sahara among the most dangerous countries in the world, which just proves ย they don’t get out much. The Polisario guerrilla war had been quiet for years while a UN referendum was set to solve (or re-ignite) the dispute by the end of the year. For the moment the Polisario sat and waited.

Besides, fuel was discounted to nearly half price to encourage Moroccan settlers and so help win any referendum so, with tanks brimming, we set off to cover the 900 kilometres to Dakhla in time to sign on for the military convoy to the border.

The twice-weekly convoy had been running for about five years, escorting southbound travellers the last 500km to the end of the road and the minefields of No Man’s Land. Officially it existed to offer protection from Polisario kidnappers, but now the one-way route was just an excuse for more form filling and stamp collecting in the expensive and soulless garrison town of Dakhla.

mercamp

We camped by the beach and after a day spent acquiring this paperwork as well as the provisions for the journey (which could take anything from two to four days to Nouadhibou, the next supply point) we joined the convoy queue at the edge of town check point. In front of us was a mixture of European estates, 4WDs, ancient Saviem campervans plus the ubiquitous Mercedes vans and cars. People milled around, inspecting each other’s cars or snacking until a commotion from the guardhouse signified that we were off. Car by car the mile-long convoy gradually unwound itself and began to roll south across desiccated valleys, over sandy crests and past distant cliffs.

mercants

On the way down we assisted a decrepit van with a holed radiator and then stopped to help out a group of Mauritanians standing alongside a C180 up on its jack. Apart from its hand-painted number plate, the cool white Merc looked suspiciously roadworthy.

‘This looks in pretty good nick mate; what did it cost you?’ enquired Andy, as he rolled up his spare.

‘Oh you know, it wasn’t so expensive’, replied the veiled Moor fiddling with his tyre nuts.

‘Oh yes. Special offer was it?’ teased Andy.

‘Yes, my brother has a friend who has a garage. It was a good price.’ The wonder was that the stolen Italian car had managed to cross Europe at allโ€ฆ

That night the whole convoy camped outside the fort marking the southernmost limit of Moroccan territory. The whole area was said to be surrounded by land mines, a fact which tended to temper one’s desire to wander too far when trying to have a secluded crap. Having checked in with the guard, we squeezed the Merc among the other cars, had a candlelit snack and eventually spread out our bags in the dirt and dozed off.

By 10.30 next morning the convoy was ready to cross No-Man’s-Land into Mauritania. This was the sharp end of the trip, sixty-odd kilometres of bare rock, soft sand, and check points that would keep us moving in stops and starts till 2am the following day. And then there were the mines, deadly relics from the Polisario wars which still wiped out the odd car that strayed or tried to sneak through illegally off piste. Half an hour and a couple of boggings from the fort, we reached some crumbling tarmac from the Spanish colonial era, close to the twisted remains of a blown up Land Rover just 30 metres from the road.

mercundermerc

Up ahead a huge queue lead to the first Mauritanian check point where one car moved off every ten minutes. Having crossed the Tropic of Cancer yesterday, winter afternoons were now reaching a cozy 30 degrees, and as we settled in for the long wait a be-robed Moor came over to check out Andy’s Merc. This was more like it: selling a car in No-Man’s-Land before Customs stamped your passport ‘with vehicle’ was playing well ahead of the game. The guy kicked the tyres, wiggled the steering wheel and looked under the bonnet. He seemed keen but Andy knew better than to rush the deal which was left in the air. While thrilled by this early interest he hatched another ruse to nobble Mori Customs by switching the export plates with the original numbers shown on the registration document.

merc3

By 3pm we reached the immigration hut where a guy with a ruler, biro and an exercise book laboriously filled in everyone’s details and took their passports. Up ahead other convoy drivers helped the 2WDs through a tricky sand trap which had already totalled three Dutch Mercedes’ radiators, wrecked by ill-laid sand ladders and too much speed. With these removed, Christophe and Andy tentatively gunned their machines into the pit, got stuck and was heaved back onto the old tarmac and the next three-hour wait.

Mahfzoud, the Moorish car buyer materialised again and Andy laid on the charm, reiterating the superb qualities of his five-cylinder model. A bit of motortalk ensued and then Mahfzoud hopped in for the 50km drive to the main check point. Tiring of the old tarmac, Andy took to the desert floor, occasionally grounding with a thud that bothered the car’s potential buyer not at all. Negotiations advanced until they suddenly came to a head. Andy slammed on the brakes, blocking the track.

‘So you will pay 12,000 francs (ยฃ1200), yes?’

‘Of course. I have shown you the cash.’ said Mahfzoud.

‘And you want to buy the car now.’

‘I am ready. Give me the keys and I give you the money.’

Cars pulled up behind us, waited, and then worked their way round.

‘And you will drive us to Nouadhibou.’

‘No, no, I cannot do this.’

‘But how will we get there?’

‘Get a lift with your friend in the Volvo.’

Six people, even in a stately 740, would surely arouse suspicion. The authorities weren’t clueless about this import-tax dodging car trade – they just wanted a piece of the action. Once Mahfzoud got his hands on the car, he’d find his own way back to Nouadhibou, possibly tipping off Customs about Andy’s newly-acquired stash. Smelling a rat in this too-perfect scenario, he moved on.

At dusk we crossed the railway and arrived at the main check point and another crowd of stationary cars. Hustlers, touts and guides up from Nouadhibou pestered weary drivers insistently. Night fell, the stolen C180 slipped through the barrier with a nod and a wink, and a two-mile-long train rumbled past on its 500-mile journey to the iron ore mines inland.

Around 10pm, having ignored this stage in the passport-stamping procedure, we drove on through to the next checkpoint, waited two hours, moved on again and, finally, at about 1am, stumbled half-asleep into another hut where a guy courteously returned our passports.

We were in Nouadhibou at last, no picturesque desert oasis, but a lively port town looking forward to the end of Ramadan. Checking in at the police station next day, Andy had an amazing stroke of luck. Outside, an Algerian caught crossing the border illegally and stranded for a week flipped out and the policemen leapt up to sort him out in the approved manner. Left alone in the office for a few seconds, Andy reached over the counter, inked up a ‘no car’ entry stamp and whacked it into his real passport. Now he could leave the country with no evidence of having brought in the Merc. Perfect.

There was no road back then so I took a bush taxi along the beach route to Nouakchott; 22 people in and on a 70-series Toyota pickup. Andy and Christophe loaded the cars onto the empty ore train and headed inland towards the Adrar mountains. Within an hour of arriving at the town of Atar, Andy sold his Merc to the hotel owner for a juicy ยฃ1400. The guy was so delighted with his new purchase, he immediately invited all his guests to join him for a drive round town. How long even the hardy Merc would last there is anybody’s guess, but the gang piled into the Volvo, took a back road out of town to avoid the check point, and headed for Dakar.

Originally published in Top Gear magazine, May 1998
Desert Dealers 2 – 2006
mercjumpers

Tassili N’Ajjer Rock Art (Tamrit, Sefar, Jabbaren)

Gallery from our one-week, 60-km donkey trek on the Tassili plateau in late 2013, following our camel walk to Essendilene. We took the classic route, up the Akba Essaliwen near Djanet onto the escarpment for Tamrit, then over to amazing Sefar and down and out via Jabbaren. See map below.
Loaded camels can’t manage the climb we took to the plateau (left), far less the descent at Jabbaren. So pack donkeys take a longer, less steep path ascent and, with much coaxing, down the Jabbaren trail with us.

Once on top it’s a Lost World of gnared outcrops, rock art caves, weathered canyons and ancient trees where people thrived 10,000 years ago. And less than 10,000 years after my first visit to Djanet, I was thrilled to finally to tick off the famous Tassili plateau trek. Like Assekrem, it’s the another Must See in the Algerian Sahara, but I hear these days is getting like the Lake District. Not got a week for the full lap? Do a one-day up to Jabbaren and back.

Tamrit, Sefar, Jabbaren trek

As we were approaching Jabbaren before the steep descent back to the plain at the end of our trek, I heard later that my Spot tracking dropped out for those following it back home. At this time Tigantourine oil base near In Amenas was getting attacked by the Algerian army following a raid by an AQIM group led by the notorious Mokhtar Belmokhtar out of Libya. Even though 400km to the south, I presumed the Algerians temporarily blocked all satellite signals across the region. Checking in unshaven at Algiers airport a couple of days later, the bloke at the desk grinned and asked ‘you were there?’. Turns out it was nothing to smile about.