Updates & Corrections to v 3.0 of the book, published October 2017
Future reprints – 3.1, 3.2 etc – will include all previous updates and corrections
Update 3.0.5 – 14 & 19 February 2018
A few tips on campervan insurance if you don’t feel confident in buying border insurance.
Also, extending your Moroccan insurance can be tricky in the country:
Warning: Although the visa extension was easier than reports on the web, extending our vehicle insurance was not.
There are assurance offices in most large towns, but they will only do Moroccan registered vehicles. That includes AXA. The frontiers insurance seems to be a monopoly with CAT Compangie D’assurance Transport based in Cassablanca. They have relatively few agents and you have to visit the agencies in person to get a new assurance certificate.
It cost us 1952 D for 3 more months (the same as at the border).
Update 3.0.4 – 18 January 2018
Brittany Ferries announce a new ferry route between Cork and Santander – 26 hours each way, twice a week from April to November.
New route MS777 (right) from Fred W; a smoother way to or from Foum Zguid to Lac iriki via MS8. Download the pdf route description.
Update 3.0.3 – 9 January 2018
MS8 – correction/updates
Belgian travellers Fred and Jo (contributors to my other books) observe:
… the initial route description [out of Mhamid] makes it quite a bit more difficult then it ought to be … it sure keeps you busy and makes it more adventurous. The zigzagging between the dunes can be avoided by following the main trail right out of the village to the south for Erg Chegaga which makes a big curve under all the messy bits. It is drawn (more or less) like this on most GPS maps (eg: left). It then picks up the described route again close to Erg Chegaga [KM75]. This is the route as given to us by a local guy so it is relatively well travelled and thus quite easy to follow.
There is an additional checkpoint around KM181, just before the oued crossing and ‘chicane’.
Possibly as a result of flooding KM204 will better read now:
KM205 (109) Cross the Oued Mellah at an army checkpoint: N29 39.62 W07 12.02
We are probably not the first ones to be confused there, as there were already tracks leading from the KM204 waypoint straight into the oued… If you do cross here you will come to a halt shortly by a lot of water followed by an unsurmountable ridge.
Western Sahara map
Revised with new road north of Bir Anzerane. May link up with Bou Craa road eventually.
Update 3.0.2 – 26 December 2017
‘MH19’ southbound added
MH4 KM0–57 – correction/update
Now all sealed through to Iknioun. At KM0 (Shell/Afriquia) continue 800m SW to the next roundabout, then turn SW.
At KM3 fork, right is for Ouaklim village; left then turning right (SSW) at KM7 avoids the village. Both routes join up at KM11. From here all clear to Iknioun.
Within a year they say the classic MH4 may be sealed to bring in electricity pylons from Nour solar plant. Hard to believe, but in late 2017 the approach to Nekob was already a dirt motorway.
MH14 KM72 – correction
Turn right off Olaf… I always get those two mixed up!
MH14–MH15 link route
In December we did the 9-km link route down from MH15 KM69 to MH14 KM31.
The impressive 500-m decent (below) is doable from either end in any vehicle that has managed to get this far.
We did MS77 in the same rental 4×4 pictured above. Expecting the worst, I have to say it was much less rocky than expected, but the Mitsubishi was softly spring. I doubt an old HJ60 would have been such a magic carpet.
Around KM44, before converging with MS7, things got quite sandy and rutty (left); fun in a car, less so on a loaded moto with road tyres.
Before KM72 the main track seems to bypass the dunes mentioned, so that’s not an issue. Then, heading NW then W after the desert camps is more sandy ruts. Again, fun in a fourbie, but would require commitment and knobblies on a bike.
Update 3.0.1 – 20 October 2017
Marrakech airport arrivals
With the flash new terminal at Marrakech Menara airport, the grubby old #19 ALSA bus stand is now a couple of hundreds metres away from the exit. 20 one way, 30dh return.
Insurance at Beni Enzar/Nador
No longer close to the Melilla border, as on the map p54.
Now 12-km away in Nador town: see new map here.
Once you leave the road [KM57] the piste is a bit washed out than usual towards the summit.
Over the summit initially rough as usual. A new road is working its way up from Nekob with some diversions.
‘MH19’ (not in the book)
In good shape; see this.
It’s now asphalt to Amtezguine [KM56], but from there the climb gets quite rocky and washed out for about 10km until the first hamlet at the northern, near the mast. On a big bike I’d say southbound is easier.
I’m told they will be sealing the middle section between Agadir Melloul [KM105] and Assaragh [KM137], but I imagine that may take a while.